Hello everyone, and welcome to the penultimate installment of my blog and my last from my time on the road!
I am now back in Shanghai following around three weeks travelling around China. Unfortunately due to Visa restrictions I was unable to get a Russian Visa long enough to make my trans-siberian railway trip possible. This means that in two days I will be back in the UK as I fly home from Shanghai. I apologise for yet another lenghty delay between blog entries, however internet facilities in China are not that readily available and I have been unable to post until now.
After spending a few days in Shanghai and discovering that I was unable to get a Russian Visa, I decided to spend my last few weeks on the road taking in as much of China as I possibly could. So from Shanghai I flew down to Kunming in the Yunnan province bordering Tibet in Southern China. Kunming was a pleasant enough town, but in reality I only stayed there as it was a neccessary stop on route to Lijiang in the North of the province. Lijiang is far more of a tourist hub than Kunming, which is more of working city and in some ways this is one of the problems Lijiang has. Whilst it is a very attractive town, there are too many tourists. With the growth of the Chinese middle-class in recent years, there has been a huge boom in domestic tourism, and with 1.3 billion people in the country, thats a lot of tourists. The result is that while 10 years ago Lijiang would probably have been a city with incomparible charm, a Venice of the East, a small town built on a trading crossroads on top of a series of rivers and streams. However now, every house is now devoted to trying to flog poorly made crap to tourists and the town has lost much of its heritage. The town has also suffered from the Chinese tendency to go over the top with restoration work, to the point where the town in many ways begins to resemble Disneyland. However this is a little harsh and the town is still beautiful, particulalrly the Black Dragon Pool Park, from where you can gain a stunning view of the Himalayas reflected in the park's lake.
My next destination after another brief stop in Kunming, was Chengdu. I spent only a couple of days here looking around the pleasant city, however my real reason for visiting Chengdu was because it was home to China's biggest Panda breeding centre. I spent a very enjoyable morning looking around and got to see a large number of Pandas. This appealed to me far more than the tales of travellers' who had gone on 'Panda safaris' for a week only to see nothing but bamboo.
Following my brief stint in Chengdu, my next stop was Xi'an. Apart from Beijing, Xi'an is probably the one town in China which all tourists must visit. The town itself retains a surprising amount of charm and is home to a number of impressive sites all enclosed in spectacular fasion by the imposing city walls. However in Xi'an the must-see site is actually outside of town. The city itself was actually the first capital of China, being the home of its' first emperor Qin. His legacy is not only sealed by being the country's first emperor, but also by the Terracotta Army he built to guard his tomb. In all honesty I had expected to be dissapointed by the Terracotta Army and was surprised at how impressed I was. The site is definitely worth seeing, however I would probably stop short of agreeing with the self-proclaimed '8th wonder of the world' title given to it by the Chinese.
The next stop after Xi'an was the little visited (at least by Chinese tourists) Pingyao. This town was probably my favorite place in China, possibly because it was not mobbed by the tourist hordes that I encountered everywhere else in the country, and possibly because the town itself has been spared the poor restoration work that has ruined many other Chinese sites. I fell in love with this town particularly at night. This is when the smoke from the coal burners combined with the fog to shroud the air in a thick mist, which was given a red tinge by the lamps on the side of houses that illuminate the town. That is not to say that the town is lacking in things to see in the day, with many of the city's buildings being over 500 years old and the city being enclosed in a colossal city wall. Also unlike many other Chinese towns, Pingyao has resisted the temptation of the high-rise building, so that from the city's walls you can look down over the entire town.
However due to time limitations, I could not linger in Pingyao and had to head on to Beijing. I the country's capital I took in the Forbidden city (too many tourists but impressive) the Temple of Heaven and the Summer Palace(far more relaxed and particularly beautiful as there were fewer people and both are set in parks which are particularly attractive at this time of year with Autumn having set in) as well as visiting the Great Wall (impressive).
Now I am back in Shanghai and in 2 days will be back in the UK. I look forward to seeing everyone back home, and will write one last entry outlining my favorite countries, sites, natural wonders, cities and chill-out stops.
Catch you all soon
Phil