Tuesday 28 October 2008

Why does it have to be so difficult to get Visa's?

Hello all and welcome back to my blog.

I apologise for the delay since my last installment but I have been unable to use a computer for long enough to write a new entry since I last wrote. My last entry was written from the calming 'city' of Pokhora in the foothills of the Himalayas in Nepal. I am currently writing the latest entry from the buzzing city of Shanghai, having arrived here, not without complications, via the cities of Kathmandu, Hong Kong and Guangzhou.

My first stop after Pokhora was the capital of Nepal, Kathmandu. My purpose here was stay two or three days whilst I was getting my Chinese Visa. I had planned to enjoy the cities backpacker bar scene and take in some of the Nepalese and Tibetan exile culture that exists in the city whilst I waited. I enjoyed the city for the first three days, taking in the impressive Durbar square and the Bodhnath stupa (shrine), one of the worlds largest Buddhist stupas . The area surrounding the stupa is also home to a large Tibetan exile community, so I enjoyed taking the opportunity to experience some Tibetan culture, despite the fact that I had been informed that I would be unable to go to Tibet.

Unfortunately upon arriving in Kathmandu I had been informed by an agency that going to Tibet from Nepal was now a near impossibility in the wake of the protests during the Olympics. However I was still optimistic of getting my Chinese Visa in the city and being able to fly to China with ease. Unfortunately this was not the case either. After waiting a week (far longer than my original 3 day plan) for the embassy to accept applications, due to various holidays, the weekend and 'emergency meetings', I was swiftly told at the embassy that there was no point in applying as it would inevitably get turned down. Why they could not have told me this on any of my previous visits over that week, instead of telling me 'tomorrow' every time, I do not know.

This left me with a dilemma: How was I going to get a Chinese Visa? The main problem was that the Chinese government had placed exceptionally strict restrictions on getting Visas during the Olympics. These restrictions had been lifted after the Olympics in theory, but this seemingly had not happened. I was then advised that my best bet in getting a Visa outside of the UK was to go to Bangkok or Hong Kong. Not wanting to go back to go completely out of my way Hong Kong was the logical choice.

My time in Hong Kong was brief but enjoyable, if expensive. The Visa application was surprisingly easy and after 3 days (would have been one if not for the weekend) I had my Visa. Whilst in Hong Kong I enjoyed taking it easy in the day, but enjoyed a couple of nights out in the city before heading into mainland China.

My first stop was Guangzhou, the industrial heart of China and a destination that is rarely on a travellers itinerary. My reason for visiting, was that a friend of mine, Yahn, was living just outside the city and working as an English teacher. I spent a week in the city in total enjoying realxing in the day and catching up with a friend and at night hitting the town. To be honest I am very glad I got to go to Ghangzhou. Aside from getting the chance to visit a friend, it also gave me the opportunity to see a more authentic modern China, and the opportunity to meet people who have not been overly exposed to westenr tourists. The people are amazingly friendly, if a little surprised to see you. People stare, stop in the street to look and whisper amongst theselves whislt stealing glances, but not in a malignant way as I have experienced in the past. Often, it seems to be out of mere fascination. Whilst in other countries a white face makes the locals look at you as if you were a walking ATM, in China it evokes a different reaction; pride. The people are exceptionally proud of their country and proud that you want to see it, and everywhere you go people will offer to buy you drinks and invite you over to there table.

However after a very enjoyable week I had to leave Guangzhou and head to Shanghai where I am now. The plan is to apply for my Russian Visa tomorrow, and I will update you all soon with how that goes, lets hope well, or a may be back in the UK sooner than anticipated...

Speak to you all soon

Phil

Monday 6 October 2008

Nepal: The perfect India antidote?



Hello all and welcome back to my blog. I am once again relaxing in Pokhora in Nepal (Nepal's second largest city) and enjoying it greatly. My time in India was amazing, but it left me fatigued. I was sick and tired of dirt, touts and travelling everywhere at a million miles an hour. So my arrival in Nepal could not have come at a better time.

I knew that I had arrived in a very different country the second that I crossed the border. As I ascended towards Pokhora into the foothills of the Himalayas the difference in the countries was evident. When you look out of the window of your bus in India, you will see little more than rubbish in the majority of places. But in Nepal, the natural beauty is astounding, and for the most part unblemished. In Pokhora it is even possible to swim in the lake! In India the concept of a non-Indian actually bathing in the water is farcical. the one traveller I met who actually did swim in the Ganges, and then assured me he felt fine, swiftly came down with several illnesses, requiring a trip to the hospital. So it was a pleasant surprise when I arrived in Pokhora and the two Swedish girls in the room opposite asked if I wanted to head down to the lake and hire a boat and go for a swim. I rowed across to the other side of the lake and we enjoyed an afternoon relaxing in the cool waters of Pokhora's lake surrounded by the snow-capped Himalayas. As I lay back relaxing watching the sun set with the mountains perfectly reflected in the lake as two bikini-clad blond Swedish girls rowed me back to Pokhora (they insisted, damn all this equal rights stuff!) I knew that Nepal was going to be the perfect antidote to India.

That is not to say that I have been lazy since my arrival in Nepal, in fact quite the opposite. After a couple of days realizing in Pokhora and enjoying two of my favorite things which are fairly difficult to find in India, meat and alcohol, me and a fellow Englishman I am currently travelling with named Brad decided to go paragliding. This was great fun and an enjoyable combination of breathtaking views and adrenaline. The the next day we decided to head up to the Peace Pagoda which sits atop a hill above Pokhora and take in the views of the city and the lake. This merely whetted my appetite for what was to come.

The next day me, Brad and a Nepali guide we hired named Hari left Pokhora on an 8 day expedition to Annapurna Base Camp. the base Camp itself sits at just over 4000m altitude in the Annapurna sanctuary area. the area is famous for trekking and is famed for its' astounding beauty. the trek itself was at times difficult, but well worth it. If you watch the video you will see the view from the Base Camp itself, which was stunning, albeit cold as you can probably guess from the commentary.

Anyway I am now back in Pokhora and relatively unscathed, aside from a slightly sore knee and some leech bites (not painful just annoying as it requires intense laundry as you usually don't notice you have been bitten until they are long gone and a large pool of blood has appeared on your clothing).

Anyway I best be off, have a few days of relaxation planned before I head to Kathmandu and then hopefully onto Tibet, but we shall see.

Speak to you all soon

Phil